modern gazebo design ideas
argh, lumber, tools. argh, build. last week i built a covered sandbox. herein florida you need some shade or your goose is cooked. i was going to put a shade canopyon it and you can find those plans on my website. simply easy diy dot com. however, ive alwayswanted to build a pergola, or is it a shade arbor? i didn't know so i consulted professorgoogle and apparently the difference has to do with the' thing.aaaa, you know i stillhave no idea. ahh, i'm just kiddin. a pergola is usually attached to another structure onone side where as an arbor is usually constructed over a walkway and generally you don't situnder them. well this is sort of a cross between the two so yeah i still don't know. a quicktrim on the miter saw will give me
the lengths i need and those lengths can befound at simply easy diy dot com. this is going to require a lot of glue so ill justmake sure to top off my glue bottle before i begin. ive gotta work fast because i'm sandwichingall the posts together into one glue up so ill be racing the open time on my glue. becausei didn't want treated lumber and that is all i could find locally by way of 4x4s i decidedto make my own. instead of using two 2x4s for each post i'm using one 2x4 and one 1x4.the 1x4 is a different length from the 2x4. you'll see why later. just a fair warningi'm taking liberties all over the place with this project. with those in the clamps timeto work on the cross beams. these are 2x6s that ill trim to size. then measure a markhere, connect the
and measure a mark there. connect the two dots. and its off with the jigsaw. simplereally. clean that up a little bit. the rafters are just 2x4s. they just get asimple 45 degree angle cut in both ends and the miter saw takes care of that job no problem. the diagonal cross pieces. 2x6s. ill shapethese a bit differently and to do that ill need to break out a highly calibrated, pieceof equipment. don't feel bad if you don't have one as top shelf as mine. i'm all aboutclass here at simply easy diy.
that trash can had this funny lip on it whichi don't want my final profile to be like that. so precision is the name of the game now.. hands like a surgeon jigsaw, take it away. after that i need some angles cut in those ends and ill just lay these out so i can marka rough line just to help me keep my cuts headed in the right direction.miter saw gives me what i need here. and that'll work just fine. by this time my posts are dry and out of theclamps. ill just clean these up by running
them through my table saw so i can take offthat mess. but, now i have these sharp corners whichi do not want. a round over bit in my trim router makes short work of those. if you don'thave a router or a round over bit, not to worry. a sander with some 80 grit sandpaperwill take care of ya. or you could just deal with the sharp corners. its your boat. floatit like you want. time to put some stuff together.liberties warning! the size of my arbor slash pergola affords me to be able to lay out thecross beam and set the posts across it like so. ill just make sure the two pieces meetat the end of my taper. a large drywall square will be my lovely assistanttoday to square of the posts to the cross
beam. if you don't have one of these no problem.a regular framing square will do just fine or you could use the 3, 4, 5 method. whateverworks for you. screws instead of bolts. use bolts if youwant. don't judge me youtube. cats all she wants is food. flip the whole thing over and attach the diagonal braces. see told you all she wanted was food.now some of you may have a question about now and if you ask that question in the commentsi'm just going to say website. ill discuss it over there.installation time. our arbor is going over the kids sandbox. so ill just slide one sideup to where i want it and start digging some
holes.now i can not possibly go over every possible situation or outcome one may encounter whilebuilding a project like this. it cant be done. you're just going to have to know a littleabout where you live, your ground characteristics, building codes, things like that and go fromthere. i will show you what i did and if that helps, great.18 inches is what i'm going for. this is a liquid rubberized material thatis often used on roofs. there are several types of material you can use for an applicationlike this but it needs to stay pliable so that it will expand and contract with thepost. if it doesn't, you're going to have problems.some gravel at the bottom of the hole is going
to help with drainage. a lack drainage isa big reason why posts fail prematurely. alright here we go. i do not use concreteto set posts anymore. a hurricane or two will break you of that habit pretty quick. alsoconcrete holds moisture next to the post causing premature rot. i might talk a little moreabout that over on the blog post. check the description. ill have the links in there.now as long as i dont compact the dirt around the post just yet i can still adjust it thisway or that so i can make everything plumb and level.same thing for the front side. the difference here is i wanna make sure thetwo sides are level with each other. so ill lay out one of the rafters across them andcheck a level.
i'll do that for both sides. i also want to make sure the posts on bothsides are the same distance from each other, and adjust as needed. now i'll lay my rafters in place. and set the front overhang. then i'll mark those lines. take the rafters back to my shop and use that line as a guide to drill some pocket holes. lay them back in place, line up the marks to the beam and do the thing.
for the side trellises i'm just using a basic vertical slat design. ive seen some prettycool setups on these things so it all depends on how intricate you would like to be.but that my friends i will leave to you. as for me i will throw some stain on here, laysome shade cloth over the top and my job is done. simply easy diy dot com for a cut listand materials. until then.